Early Habits, Customs, and Dress in Loudoun County
Taken from the book by James W. Head,
History and Comprehensive Description of Loudoun County, Virginia,
published by Park View Press in 1908.
Habits
The earliest permanent settlements of Loudoun having
been separately noted in the foregoing paragraphs a generalized description
of the habits, customs, and dress of these settlers, as well as their
unorganized pioneer predecessors and the steady promiscuous stream
of
homeseekers that poured into the County until long after the Revolution,
will now be attempted.
The early settlers, with but one class exception, had no costly tastes
to gratify, no expensive habits to indulge, and neither possessed
nor cared for luxuries. Their subsistence, such as they required,
cost but little of either time or labor. The corn from which they
made their bread came forth from the prolific soil almost at the touch
of their rude plows. Their cattle and hogs found abundant sustenance
in the broad pastures which, in the summer, yielded the richest grass,
and in the woods where, in the fall, the ground was strewn with acorns
and other like provender.
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Waterford, Virginia farm
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The pioneer lived roughly; the German from the Palatinate kept house
like the true peasant that he was; the planter lived somewhat more
sumptuously and luxuriously; but, in nearly every case, the table
was liberally supplied. Hominy, milk, corn-bread, and smoked or jerked
meats seem to have been most popular with the humbler classes.
Ice was not stored for summer use, fruits were few and not choice,
and the vegetables limited; our ancestors, at that time, having no
acquaintance with the tomato, cauliflower egg-plant, red-pepper, okra,
and certain other staple vegetables of today. The Indians had schooled
them in the preparation of succotash with the beans grown among the
corn, and they raised melons, squashes, and pumpkins in abundance.
Corn for bread was broken in a mortar and ground in a grater or
hand-mill. Mills, in the early days, were few and far apart, some
of the back-settlers
being compelled to travel many miles for their grist. This condition
gave origin to the adage "first come first served," and frequently
carried the late arrivals over night and, at times, prolonged the
trip to procure a few bushels of meal three or four days. "Bandmills,"
run by horses, and small water mills, where the situation permitted,
came into use to supply the demand of larger ones. The building
of
a good mill, it must be confessed, was hailed with greater satisfaction
than the erection of a church.
The more primitive of these peoples ate from wooden trenchers and
platters; sat upon three-legged stools or wooden blocks; used bear's
grease in lieu of lard and butter, and cut their foods with the same
sheath-knives used in disembowelling and skinning the deer killed
by their rifles. They had no money and their scant furniture was essentially
crude, sometimes including a few pewter dishes and plates and spoons,
but usually nothing beyond wooden bowls, trenchers, and noggins, with
gourds and squashes daintily cut. The horse trough served as a wash-basin,
and water buckets were seldom seen. The family owning an iron pot
and a kitchen table were esteemed rich and extravagant, and china
and crockery ware were at once practically unknown and uncraved. Feather-beds
and bedsteads were equally eschewed, these hardy men who had conquered
the wilderness not disdaining, when night came, to sleep upon a dirt
floor with a bear-skin for covering.
With muscles of iron and hearts of oak, they united a tenderness
for the weak and a capability for self-sacrifice worthy of an ideal
knight of chivalry; and their indomitable will, which recognized
no obstacle as insuperable, was equaled only by their rugged integrity
which regarded dishonesty as an offense as contemptible as cowardice.
For many years they dwelt beyond the pale of governmental restraint,
nor did they need the presence of either courts or constables. Crimes
against person, property, or public order were of so infrequent
occurrence
as to be practically unheard of. In moral endowments even if not
in mental attainments-these sturdy pioneers of Loudoun were, it
must
be admitted, vastly superior to many of those who followed them when
better facilities for transportation rendered the County more accessible.
Society before and for many years after the Revolution was easy,
agreeable, and somewhat refined. Traveling was slow, difficult, and
expensive. For society, the inhabitants were mainly dependent upon
themselves; the ties of social life were closely drawn. Books, newspapers,
and magazines were rare; men and women read less, but talked more,
and wrote longer and more elaborate letters than now. "Cheap postage
has spoiled letter writing." Much time was spent in social visits;
tea parties, and supper parties were common. The gentlemen had their
clubs and exclusive social gatherings, sometimes too convivial in
their character, and occasionally a youth of promise fell a victim
to the temptations of a mistaken hospitality. "Gaming was more common
among respectable people than at the present day."
Customs
Of leisure, all classes at all times had a superabundance, and it
was cheerfully devoted to mutual assistance without thought of recompense,
except in kind. If anyone fell behind through sickness or other misfortune,
his neighbors would cheerfully proffer their services, often making
of the occasion a frolic and mingling labor with amusement.
On days set apart for the pulling of flax and wheat-cutting, the
neighbors and their children assembled in happy mood and as cheerfully
applied themselves to their gratuitous tasks. While the men were
pulling the flax or reaping and shocking the wheat, the women at
the house
were preparing the harvest-noon feast. The rough table, for which
the side and bottom boards of a wagon were frequently used, was
placed
when practicable under the shade of a spreading tree in the yard.
The visitors contributed from their meager store such additional
dishes,
knives, forks, and spoons as were needed. Around the table, seated
on benches, stools, or splint-bottom chairs, with such appetites
as
could only be gained from honest toil in the open field, the company
partook of the bounties set before them. These consisted, in addition
to the never-failing corn-bread and bacon, of bear and deer meat,
turkey, or other game in season, and an abundance of vegetables
which
they called " roughness." The bread, styled "jonny-cake," was baked
on journey or " jonny" boards, about two feet long and eight inches
wide. The dough was spread over the boards which were then placed
before the fire; after one side was browned, the cake was reversed
and the unbaked side turned toward the flames.
However strictly it might be abstained from at other times, a harvest
without whisky was like a dance without a fiddle. It was partaken
of by all--each one, male and female, drinking from the bottle and
passing it to his or her nearest neighbor. Drinking vessels were
dispensed
with as mere idle superfluities.
Dinner over, the company scattered, the elders withdrawing In a body
and seating or stretching themselves upon the ground.
After the filling and lighting of the inevitable pipe, conversation
would become general. The news of the day-not always, as may be imagined,
very recent-was commented upon, and then, as now, political questions
were sagely and earnestly discussed. Stories, mainly of adventure,
were told; hairbreadth escapes from Indian massacre recounted and
the battles of late wars fought again beneath the spreading branches
of the trees. Meanwhile, the boys and girls wandered off in separate
and smaller groups, singing and playing and making love much in the
manner of today.
Another amusement of those days, and one that did not fall into disfavor
for many years thereafter, was what was known as "shucking bees."
To these gatherings were invited both old and young. Stacks of corn
in the husk were piled upon the ground near the crib where the golden
ears were finally to be stored. Upon the assemblage of the guests,
those with proud records as corn-huskers were appointed leaders, they
in turn filling the ranks of their respective par- ties by selection
from the company present, the choice going to each in rotation. The
corn was divided into approximately equal piles1 one of which was
assigned to each party. The contest was then begun with much gusto
and the party first shucking its allotment declared the winner. The
lucky finder of a red ear was entitled to a kiss from the girls.
Supper always followed this exciting contest and after supper came
the dance. Stripped of dishes, the tables were quickly drawn aside
and the room swept by eager hands. Then came the struggle for partners
and the strife to be "first on the floor." Usually the violin furnished
the only music and the figures most in favor were the reel and
the
jig, in which all participated with a zest and abandon unknown to
the modern ballroom. "They danced all night till broad daylight
and went home with the girls in the morning," some on foot and
some on horseback, practically the only means of getting there.
"Dreadful prodigality" does not too extravagantly describe the drinking
habits of the people of Virginia in the latter half of the eighteenth
century. They consumed an enormous quantity of liquors in proportion
to their numbers, and drank indiscriminately, at all hours of the
day and night. West India rum was the favorite drink of the people,
because the cheapest, and was bought by the puncheon. Most every cellar,
especially in the Cavalier settlements, had its barrel of cider, Bordeaux
and sherry and Madeira wines, French brandies, delicate Holland gins,
cordials, syrups, and every sort of ale and beer. Drunkenness was
so common as to excite no comment, and drinking after dinner and at
parties was always hard, prolonged, and desperate, so that none but
the most seasoned old topers-the judges, squires, and parsons of six-bottle
capacity ever escaped with their sea-legs in an insurable condition.
While a large proportion of the home-seekers that had settled in
the County immediately after the Revolution had received a rudimentary
education, and had lived among communities which may be said to have
been comparatively cultured, most of them were hardy, rough, uncultivated
back woodsmen, accustomed only to the ways of the frontier and camp.
Many of them had served in the war of the Revolution and all of
them
in the border wars with the Indians. Though brave, hospitable and
generous, they were more at ease beneath the forest bivouac than
in
the "living-room" of the log-cabin, and to swing a woodman's axe
among the lofty trees of the primeval forest was a pursuit far more
congenial
to their rough nature and active temperament than to mingle with
society in settled communities. Their habits and manners were plain,
simple,
and unostentatious. Their clothing was generally made of the dressed
skins of the deer, wolf, or fox, while those of the buffalo and
elk
supplied them with covering for their feet and heads. Their log-cabins
were destitute of glass, nails, hinges, or locks.
Education during the early settlements received but little attention
in Loudoun, and school-houses, always of logs, were scarcely to
be
seen. Schools were sometimes opened at private houses or at the residence
of the teacher; but "book larnin" was considered too impracticable
to be of much value.
While the standard of morality,commercial as well as social, was
of a high order,few of these settlers were members of any church.
Many of them, however, had been reared in religions communities by
Christian parents; had been taught to regard the Sabbath as a day
of worship, and had been early impressed with a sense of the necessity
of religious faith and practice. Some of the prominent citizens
encouraged
these views by occasionally holding meetings in their cabins, at
which the scriptures and sometimes sermons were read and hymns sung,
but
no prayers were offered. The restraining and molding influence of
these early Christian efforts upon the habits and morals of the
people
was in every respect whole-some and beneficial. The attention of
the people was arrested and turned to the study and investigation
of moral
and religions questions, and direction was given to the contemplation
of higher thoughts and the pursuit of a better life.
In the meantime, other elements were introduced which effected a
radical change in the habits of the people for both good and evil.
The first settlers lived in the country, in the woods and wilds,
whose
"clearings" were far apart. Not one in ten of them had dwelt in any
town, or even visited one having as many as a thousand inhabitants.
And now there came the merchant, the lawyer, the doctor, and the
mechanic who resided in the towns which began to grow and to take
on new life.
Most of these had enjoyed superior advantages, so far as related
to education and that worldly wisdom which comes from experience
in older
communities. Some of them had come from across the ocean and others
from the large American cities, bringing with them manners, customs,
furniture, and wares, of which the like had never been seen by the
oldest inhabitant.
And thus were gradually introduced the methods and appliances of
a more advanced civilization. The pioneer and his wife, hearing of
these things, would occasionally "go to town" to "see the sights,"
and would there discover that there were many useful and convenient
articles for the farm and kitchen which might be procured in exchange
for their corn, bacon, eggs, honey; and hides; and although the shrewd
merchant was careful to exact his cent per cent, the prices asked
were little heeded by the purchaser who was as ignorant of the value
of the commodities offered as he was delighted with the novelty and
apparent usefulness.
Dress
The subject of dress is approached with reluctance and its description
diffidently essayed. But the task has seemed mandatory as the manners
of a people can not otherwise be fully understood. The stately, ceremonious
intercourse of the sexes, the stiff and elaborate walk of Loudoun
men and women of Colonial and post-Revolutionary times traceable
almost solely to the costuming of that period. How could ladies
dance anything
but the stately minuet, when their heads were veritable pyramids
of pasted hair surmounted by turbans, when their jeweled stomachers
and
tight-laced stays held their bodies as tightly as would a vise, when
their high-heeled shoes were as unyielding as if made of wood, at
their trails of taffeta, often as much as fifteen yards long, Dane
great feathered head-dresses compelled them to turn round as slowly
as strutting peacocks? How could the men, with their buckram-stiffened
coat-shirts, execute any other dance, when their elaborate powdered
wigs compelled them to carry their hats under their arms, and their
swords concurrently required dexterous management for the avoidance
of tripping and mortifying falls?
Children were laced in stays and made to wear chin supports, gaps,
and pads so as to give them the graceful carriage necessary to the
wearing of all this weight of stiff and elaborate costume, which was
all of a piece with the character of the assemblies and other evening
entertainments, the games of cards-basset, bo, piquet, and whist-with
the dancing, the ceremonious public life of nearly every class of
society, with even the elaborate funeral ceremonies, and the sedulousness
with which "persons of quality" thought it incumbent upon themselves
to maintain the distinctions of rank as symbolized in costume.
The tie-wig, bob-wig, bag-wig, night-cap-wig, and riding-wig were
worn by the gentleman of quality as occasion required. At times
he
wore, also, a small three-cornered cocked hat, felt or beaver) elaborately
laced with gold or silver galleon. If he walked, as to church or
court,
he carried, in addition to his sword, a gold or ivory-headed cane,
at least five feet long, and wore square-toed, "low-quartered" shoes
with paste or silver buckles. His stockings, no matter what the
material,
were tightly stretched over his calves and carefully gartered at
the knee. If he rode, he wore boots instead of shoes and carried
a stout
riding whip. About his neck was a white cravat of great amplitude,
with abundant hanging ends of lace. His waist-coat was made with
great
flaps extending nearly down to the knee and bound with gold or silver
lace. His coat, of cloth or velvet, might be of any color, but
was
sure to be elaborately made, with flap-pockets, and great hanging
cuffs, from beneath which appeared the gentleman's indispensable
lace
ruffles, His knee-breeches were of black satin, red plush, or blue
cloth, according to his fancy. They were plainly made and fitted
tightly,
buckling at the knee. At home, a black velvet skull-cap sometimes
usurped the place of the wig and a damask dressing-gown lined with
silk supplanted the coat, the feet being made easy in fancy morocco
slippers. Judges on the bench often wore robes of scarlet faced
with
black velvet in winter, and black silk gowns in summer.
The substantial planter and burgher dressed well but were not so
particular about their wigs, of which they probably owned no more
than one, kept for visiting and for Sabbath use. They usually yielded
to the custom koshering heads, however, and wore white linen
caps under their hats. During the Re voluntary War wigs were scare
and costly, linen was almost unobtainable and the practice of shaving
heads accordingly fell rapidly into destitute. Sometimes the burgher's
hat was of wool or felt, with a low crown and broad brim, turned
up
and cocked. About his neck he wore a white linen stock, fastening
with a buckle at the back. His coat was of cloth, broad-backed,
with
flap-pockets, and his waist-coat, of the same stuff, extended to
his knees. He wore short breeches with brass or silver knee-buckles,
red
or blue garters, and rather stout, coarse leather shoes, strapped
over the quarter. He wore no sword, but often carried a staff, and
knew how to use it to advantage.
Mechanics, laborers and servants wore leather-breeches and aprons,
sagathy coats, osnaburg shirts and hair-shag jackets coarse shoes,
and worsted or Jean stockings, knit at home.
The dress of the women of these classes was shabbier still, their
costumes, for the most part, comprising stamped cotton and white dimity
gowns, coarse shift (osnaburg), country cloth, and black quilted petticoats.
In the backwoods and the primitive German settlements the women all
wore the short gowns and petticoats, also tight-fitting calico caps.
In summer, when employed in the fields, they wore only a linen shift
and a petticoat of home-made linsey. All their clothing, fact, was
home-made.
The ladies of quality, however, as has been intimated, dressed extravagantly,
frizzed, rouged, wore trains, and acted as fashionable women have
done from the immemorial beginning of things.
The pioneers dressed universally in the hunting shirt or blouse,
sometimes fringed and decorated, and perhaps the most convenient frock
ever conceived. It fit loosely, was open in front, reached almost
to the knees, and had large sleeves, and a cape for the protection
of the shoulders in bad weather. In the ample bosom of this shirt
the hunter carried his bread and meat, the tow with which to wipe
out the barrel of his rifle, and other small requisites. To his belt,
tied or buckled behind, he suspended his mittens, bullet-pouch, tomahawk,
and knife and sheath. His hunting-shirt was made of dressed deerskin-very
uncomfortable in wet weather- or of linsey, when it was to be had.
The pioneer dressed his lower body in drawers and leathern cloth leggins,
and his feet in moccasins, a coon-skin cap completing the attire.
His wife wore a linsey petticoat, home-spun and home-made, and a
short gown of linsey or "callimanco," when that material could be
obtained. She wore no covering for the feet in ordinary weather, arid
moccasins, coarse, "country-made" shoes, or "shoe-packs" during more
rigorous seasons. To complete the picture Kercheval, the historian
of the Shenandoah Valley, is here quoted: "The coats and bed-gowns
of the women, as well as the bunting-shirts of the men, were hung
in full display on wooden pegs around the walls of their cabins, so
that while they answered in some degree the purpose of paper-hangings
or tapestry, they announced to the stranger as well as the neighbor
the wealth or poverty of the family in the articles of clothing."
It is to be hoped that the desultory sketch furnished above will
not be found uninteresting despite its imperfections. Many details
have been omitted or neglected, but enough has been written to illustrate
in a general way the qualities for which our ancestors were most distinguished,
for which their characters have excited most comment and perhaps deserved
most praise.
As a whole, they were a generous, large-hearted, liberal-minded people,
and their faults were far fewer than their virtues. The yeomanry,
in their own rude, rough-and-ready manner, reflected the same sort
of personal independence of character and proud sense of individuality
as the social aristocracy.